method
1. Put salt, sugar and saltpetre into a large saucepan with pickling spices tied in muslin. Add bay leaves, thyme and 8 pints water and heat gently, stirring, till sugar and salt have dissolved. Bring to the boil, then pour into bowl and cool.
2. Add meat to bowl, making sure that salt solution covers it. Cover with clean tea-towel and leave to soak in cold place for up to 2 weeks. Turn meat occasionally.
3. To cook, remove from pickle and wash under cold running water. Put into a large saucepan with one onion, peeled and spiked with cloves. Chop celery and add to pan with peppercorns. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil slowly. Skim, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 2 1/2 hours.
4. Meanwhile, peel and chop carrots and turnips. Peel remaining onions and slice thickly. Chop leeks. Add vegetables to pan, bring back to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Use strained cooking liquor to make a sauce.
